WEEKEND EXCURSIONS

A DAY OUT IN “LAS HURDES” AND THE NORTH OF THE ALAGÓN RIVER

Las Hurdes are situated to the north of Extremadura and border on Salamanca, Portugal and the regions of Sierra de Gata, the Ambroz Valley and, to the south, the Valley of the Alagón River.

                                            Las Hurdes region

This excursion takes us through beautiful mountain territory where we will be surprised by majestic waterfalls and beautiful meandering rivers. There is no lack of traditional slate constructions in most of the urban centres and there is an abundance of ochre coloured hamlets which contrast with the green pines and the incredible, lush multicolour groves.

AN ITINERARY FOR TOURISTS

Villanueva de la Sierra, the southern gateway to the region of Las Hurdes is a good spot to begin. The principal road we will use is the EX-204 which connects the towns of Coria and Béjar, in the province of Salamanca and runs through the principal urban centres of the Las Hurdes region. We will be able to visit the nearby hamlets lying snug amongst the Las Hurdes mountains.

The first village the EX204 brings us to in this itinerary is Ovejuela, a few kilometres from Villanueva de la Sierra, on the outskirts of Pinofranqueado. Ovejuela awaits us with beautiful landscapes typical of Las Hurdes, streams, clean natural pools, abundant vegetation of oak, pine, chestnut and ferns. We can enjoy an interesting visit to the source of the Ángeles River to see its famous waterfall known as the “Chorro”, the origin of this important Hurdes river. Before reaching the village, the Ovejuela River and the hamlet combine to create a really beautiful scenic opportunity for keen photographers. There is also a sign post to the famous “Chorrituelo” waterfall, known throughout the region as the birthplace of the Ovejuela River.

We return to the EX-204 to discover Pinofranqueado, one of the principal urban centres in Las Hurdes, very popular in spring and summer on account of its enormous natural pool beside the Ángeles River. Close to the pool there is an excellent camp site, a nature centre and good restaurants. The Parish Church of Nuestra Señora de la Encina is located in the Plaza Mayor (Main Square) and was modified in the 18th century. The town's “La Enramá” festivities in the month of August have been officially declared of interest as a Regional Tourist Attraction. If we walk along the banks of the Ángeles river, not too far from Ovejuela we can visit a hamlet known as Sauceda.

Across the Esperabán river valley we can see an important urban centre made up of small, attractive hamlets: Robledo, Muela y Avellanar, together with an important and inviting natural swimming pool.

To the north of the region we cannot help but be attracted by the beauty and tranquillity of three more hamlets: Castillo which conserves picturesque wooden balconies and passage bridges as does Horcajo and also the beautiful village of Erías which we enter by means of an impressive, typical archway which has been conserved. Erías is on the site of an ancient fortress which dates back to prehistoric times. We climb a little further upwards to discover the last of the hamlets in this area: Aldehuela. This beautiful valley road comes to an end here but it lets us observe what is probably one of the most outstanding examples of popular Hurdes architecture from days gone by.

We return again to the EX-204 to stop off at Caminomorisco, an important municipality in the Las Hurdes region. Its popular architecture and wooden eaves are without doubt amongst the best the region has to offer. The Chorreón del Tajo, the source of the Alavea or Aceña River is a short distance away along a forest track which wends its way through pine trees. On the outskirts of Caminomorisco there is a magnificent natural pool just beside the river. In the last centuries there have been three principal cultures in Spain and all three, Jews, Christians and Arabs, coexisted in the nearby village of Casar de Palomero. The village still conserves the three distinct neighbourhoods and remains a magnificent example of the terracotta, wood and slate latticework so typical of Las Hurdes. There are two interesting Parish Churches in Casar de Palomero, both from the 18th century: the Church of El Espíritu Santo and the Church of the Inmaculada Concepción.

The Ángeles River can be seen flowing close by this village, in sharp contrast to one of the most extensive olive groves in all Extremadura, so wide it stretches as far as the localities of La Pesga and Rivera Oveja, situated just alongside the EX-204 and all the way to the La Pesga dam, a magnificent spot for fishing enthusiasts. Interesting examples of popular Hurdes architecture can be found in the hamlets near to Caminomorisco, in particular Azabal, Cambrón, Dehesilla, Huerta and Mesegal.

From Caminomorisco we can visit one of its dependencies, namely the important Hurdes village of Cambroncino which contains the most interesting ecclesiastical building in the entire Hurdes region, the Church of Santa Catalina, known popularly as the church of “Las Lástimas”, (the Pities). The church possesses an attractive classicist portico.

The most important rural hub in the eastern part of Las Hurdes is Nuñomoral, accessible from Vegas de Coria, a locality situated right on the EX-204 from where we may contemplate one of the biggest natural pools in the area, just beside the Hurdano River. The village of Nuñomoral is situated in the very centre of the Las Hurdes massif. It lies just beside the Hurdano River and its town hall is responsible for this village and a total of eleven nearby hamlets. From Nuñomoral we can visit El Gasco and its impressive “La Meancera” waterfall. We pass by the spot where the Hurdano and Malvellido Rivers meet and where we will come across the hamlet of El Cerezal. Then we head towards the north east and to Martinlandrán, a hamlet whish stands in very abrupt terrain, just beyond the La Sierpe ravine. We can also visit Fragosa where the houses are built on mountainous slopes overlooking the river Malvellido. Close to this hamlet the religious welfare centre “El Cotolengo” provides an authentic natural balcony from which to contemplate the region. Once again following the course of the Hurdano River from Nuñomoral, we come to Casares de Las Hurdes, although before doing so we pass by one of the most beautiful hamlets in the area, right on the banks of the Asegur River, with typical buildings of slate and stone.

Set amongst mountain and forest, the hamlets we see near to Casares de Las Hurdes, on the road from Asegur, are Casarrubia, Huetre, Cabeza Robledo and Carabusino. Other nearby hamlets are Rubiaco, Horcajada and La Batuequilla. A short distance from Casares de Hurdes we come to Riomalo de Arriba, a typical hamlet which still conserves a great many of its pretty houses built using grey and black stone chips - as is the case also in Ladrillar. This latter village has added appeal as the village and its architecture are fused and confused with the surrounding countryside and the manner in which its houses are laid out adds a very special visual touch to its winding streets.

A few kilometres away in the direction of Las Mestas we pass by the Convent of Las Batuecas which rests in the midst of tranquil, serene surroundings, amongst woods and crystal clear rivers. Las Mestas, famous throughout the country for its honey and pollen, is situated in an area of unforgettably beautiful scenery, just a few kilometres from the EX-204 which now brings us to the last village of our route, the charming and welcoming hamlet of Riomalo de Abajo, right on the border with the province of Castilla and León. Set in an outstanding landscape which includes the superb meanders of the Alagón River and the crystal clear waters of the Ladrillar River which empties into the Alagón. There is a rich abundance of fish in the reservoir of the same name.

                                                    Alagón River

GASTRONOMY

In this area the “Matanza” (when a pig is slaughtered) and the resultant cold meats are legendary. These meats have a very special mountain flavour, for example the “chorizos” (seasoned sausages), “morcillas de calabaza” (black pudding with pumpkin), “lomos” (cured loins of pork) and “jamones” (hams). The olive oil produced in Las Hurdes is well appreciated within and without the region. Recipes featuring kidney beans and pot roasts are famous in Las Hurdes. Roast mountain goat is omnipresent throughout the region, especially in Riomalo de Abajo and Caminomorisco. Famous too are the local chestnuts and its figs, “Jigus Curinus” and there is an abundance of local pastries and deserts. Particularly popular are little aniseed pastries known as “perrunillas” from La Pesga, “roscas” (sweet bread rolls) from Pinofranqueado and the “flowers” and “tiroletes” from Cabezo. Don’t forget to buy some pollen and honey!

There’s no shortage of good goats cheese almost all year round and people are becoming more and more appreciative of the multitude of wild mushrooms (boletus and milk caps) which grow in the region and which are used as the main ingredient in all manner of succulent dishes.

HANDICRAFTS

In Aldehuela and El Gasco artisans create candle holders from volcanic lava. Fragosa, Casares de Las Hurdes and Cerezal are famous for their castanets and the chairs they carve and manufacture. In Fragosa they make drums and in Asegur they design splendid wooden flutes. We shouldn't forget Pinofranqueado and Erías and their heather pipes, stone candle holders and straw hats, nor Casares de Las Hurdes and its baskets. Embroidery is becoming more and more popular and it can be found in abundance throughout Las Hurdes.

FESTIVITIES

The “Fiesta Mayor” in the first weekend of August in any one of the villages of Las Hurdes is worthy of special mention and most of all the festivity of “La Enramá” in Pinofranqueado around the 23rd of August, declared of interest as a Regional Tourist Attraction.

COUNTRYSIDE AND NATURE

One thing all the rivers in Las Hurdes have in common all year long is the absolute transparency of their waters. Such is the case of the Ángeles River and indeed of all the rivers which empty into the Alagón – the Hurdano, the Ovejuela, the Esparabán, the Riomalo and the Malvellido. All are of vital hydraulic importance as far as the riverside villages in Las Hurdes are concerned. Chestnuts, oaks, olives, pines and cherries are ubiquitous.

In this province the surrounding mountains contain many very attractive areas for the visitor. As they aren’t that high, walking through or indeed to the top of them is quite easy and they are ideal for bird watching. Small reservoirs gladden the countryside as is the case of La Pesga, the one in Caminomorisco, the Árrago or the Atalaya etc.

Crystal clear river ravines, natural pools, incredible waterfalls, rivers full of unimaginable meanders and pine and oak forests as far as the eye can see. In spring an ever greater plethora of fruit trees blossom amongst the mountainous areas and the banks of rivers and streams.