WEEKEND EXCURSIONS

A DAY OUT IN LA SERENA

This itinerary will introduce us to the region of La Serena which is in the southwest corner of Extremadura, bordering on the province of Cordoba. This has always been a splendid territory for shepherds and a gateway for secular and economic exchange between the Plateau of Castille, Levante and these Extremaduran lands.

                                             La Serena reservoir

AN ITINERARY FOR TOURISTS

We begin our itinerary through the La Serena region in Villanueva de la Serena from where in just a few kilometres we arrive at La Haba which was founded at the beginning of the 15th century under the name of Aldehuela by Master Gonzalo Pérez Gallego of the Order of Alcántara. There are many mansions in the centre of the village, with beautiful facades bearing the shields and coats of arms of noble families. The Church of San Juan Bautista is laid out in the form of a Latin cross.

From La Haba we can make out the castle of Magacela and nearby we can see a magnificent dolmen from the megalithic era. Built on the site of a primitive Roman building, the castle dominates the village in which the most outstanding building are the Hermitage of San Antonio and that of the Remedies.

From Magacela we can spy the village of La Coronada where we can discover its 16th century Parish Church of San Bartolomé on which the coat of arms of the Order of Alcántara can be seen.

Just a few kilometres away is Campanario. The Parish Church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción dates back to the 15th century and just beside it is the Convent of the Franciscan Clarisses. In the vicinity of the village we can visit the Sanctuary of Piedraescrita where every Easter Monday the famous Romería (Procession) of the Virgin of Piedraescrita takes place, a festivity which has been declared of interest as a Regional Tourist Attraction.

Set on low gently undulating land, Quintana de la Serena is well known for granite extraction and treatment. In the village there is an abundance of granite faced buildings and numerous mansions with family coats of arms and shields. The 15th century Parish Church is dedicated to Nuestra Señora de los Milagros and was restored in the 19th century.
In the nearby village of La Guarda we can visit the Church of Santiago el Mayor, built in the 15th century with a Gothic portico and a gable facade.

Further to the south is the locality of Valle de la Serena. The Parish Church is dedicated to the Conception of Nuestra Señora del Valle and dates back to the 16th century.

In nearby Higuera de la Serena interesting examples of popular architecture have been conserved, particularly as far as ecclesiastical buildings are concerned, the Parish Church of the Purísima Concepción, built with masonry in the 16th century.

In the vicinity of Zalamea de la Serena there are remains of great historic and archaeological importance such as some dolmens from the megalithic era and the famous Orientalising period sanctuary known as "Cancho Roano". In Roman times Zalamea went under the name of Iulipa and from those distant days it conserves a splendid 25 metres high distyle, a Roman funeral monument unique in Spain, declared a Historic Monument in 1931.

Towards the south we can discover Peraleda del Zaucejo which is only separated from the province of Córdoba by the Zújar River. Its Parish Church of San Antonio Abad is no more and in its place there stands a modern ecclesiastical building.

From Peraleda we drive to Monterrubio de la Serena, a village established in the Middle Ages by the Military Order of Alcántara. It possesses some interesting buildings, particularly the 16th century “Casa del Cordón” and the Gothic Parish Church of Nuestra Señora de la Consolación or of the Armentera (Arlyra) from the same century.

Northwards now, en route to Castuera we pass by Puerto Hurraco in the Loro Mountain Range. Here we can visit the beautifully whitewashed Church of Nuestra Señora de Belén.

Near to Castuera is Esparragosa de la Serena, known in days gone by as "Esparragosilla". Sitting on a plain, it has outstanding popular architecture and the Parish Church of Santa María Magdalena with an interesting granite portico.

Although certain Roman remains have been found in the vicinity of Malpartida de la Serena, this locality was in fact founded in the Middle Ages, following the Reconquest. The 16th century Parish Church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción conserves on its front facade the coat of arms of the Priory of the Orden de Alcántara. Without any doubt whatsoever one of the region’s most important centres is Castuera, famous for its nougat candies and its cheeses. It is very close to the Pozón and the Pinos Mountain ranges and was the centre of the so called “Royal Pastures of La Serena”. Amongst its ecclesiastical buildings still in existence is the 15th century Hermitage of Saint John and the Parish Church of La Magdalena from the 18th century. Outstanding civic buildings include the Vieja Audiencia (Old Court) and El Pósito (Grain Store) from the beginning of the 16th century.

En route from Castuera to Cabeza del Buey we come upon Benquerencia de la Serena which stands in the mountain range of the same name, close to the Nava and the Mejoral mountain passes. There is an important castle in this village.

                                        Benquerencia de la Serena

Just a few kilometres further on we discover the beautiful locality of Helechal, close to the so called Tiros Mountain Range. There are schematic cave paintings and in the village itself the Parish Church of San Diego de Alcalá.

We pass by the Almorchón train station, once an important railway hub. Close by there are the remains of a majestic castle and also nearby, in the municipality of Cabeza del Buey, we come upon the Sanctuary of the 13th century Virgin of Bethlehem which belonged to the Order of the Temple and where today one of the most important annual processions in all Extremadura is held. Situated on the slopes of the Pedregoso Mountain Range to the west of La Serena and very close to the Peterches Valley in Cordoba, the Campo de Calatrava in Castille la Mancha and the pre-Roman settlement of Turóbriga, is Cabeza del Buey. Close by the Puerto de la Nava we may visit the remains of a Roman thermal resort.

Cabeza del Buey passed from being a property of the Order of the Temple to that of Alcántara and was granted the category of a Trusteeship (Encomienda) and most of its stately houses date from that period. The Town Hall is outstanding as are the mansions known as the Casa de los Valdivias, la Casa de los Rol, la Casa de los Muñoz, la Casa de la Audiencia, la Casa de la Encomienda and the Hospital of Santa Elena. Amongst the ecclesiastical buildings mention should be made of the Parish Church of Nuestra Señora de la Armentera or the 16th century Divina Pastora.

Moving now into the area of the La Serena reservoir we come to Zarza Capilla, where there are examples of schematic cave paintings.This village was destroyed during the Civil War and has since been split in two: Zarza Capilla de Arriba (the “upper” old village that was destroyed) and the lower “de Abajo” village.

Nearby is Peñalsordo where, in the higher part of the village, there stands the primitive 16th century Parish Church of Santa Brígida. Peñalsordo is famous throughout Extremadura for its "La Octava del Corpus" celebration, declared of interest as a Regional Tourist Attraction. Held before Corpus Christi it celebrates the taking in the 13th century of the Capilla Castle from the Muslims by Christian forces.

Capilla is in fact the last point on our itinerary. At one time it was set on the intersection of beaten tracks which connected Extremadura to the mines in Almadén, a necessary crossroads for flocks being driven from the Plateau of Castille in the 13th century. Its Mudejar style church, dedicated to the Apostle Saint James (Santiago), was built on the site of an ancient mosque in the 14th century. The castle is the village’s most important building.

GASTRONOMY

This is a land of magnificent sheep’s cheese including its own “La Serena Cheese” Denomination of Origin. Castuera has excellent nougat candy and liqueurs. Lamb stews and roasted lamb are amongst the best in all Extremadura and nor should we forget the region’s mountain goat dishes. There are fish “escarapuches” (salads with tomato and onion), cold cuts and a magnificent range of home made pastries. Local “pitarra” wines in Higuera de la Serena and Malpartida.

                                          Cheese fron La Serena

HANDICRAFTS

Pottery in Cabeza del Buey. Bobbin lace and embroidery in Quintana and Zalamea de la Serena. Stonework in Quintana de la Serena.

FESTIVITIES

The “Octava del Corpus” in Peñalsordo is a festivity which has been declared of interest as a Regional Tourist Attraction. The Virgin of Belén Procession (“Romería”) in Cabeza del Buey. In Campanario the Easter Monday Procession of the Virgin of Piedraescrita has been declared of interest as a Regional Tourist Attraction. Magacela holds a typical greyhound race on the first Sunday of Lent. The play El Alcalde de Zalamea (The Mayor of Zalamea) is performed in August in Zalamea de la Serena.

NATURE AND COUNTRYSIDE

There is a beautiful contrast between the great sweeping plains – from whence comes the Arab name “Serna”, the flatlands where non-irrigated cereals grow and where numerous flocks of merino sheep graze and the mountain ranges where scrubland and oak groves stretch out amongst the pastures which give form to the region. There are a great number of birds of prey nesting in the numerous mountain ranges and peaks and famously cranes immigrate each year to a few very specific areas of the region. The La Serena reservoir, together with that of Orellana, García de Sola and Zújar, has brought a special beauty to the landscape of the northern part of the region and has provided a magnificent haven for both Great and Little Bustards.